Introduction To Rock Climbing Gear

Written By Connor Chilcott

By Connor Chilcott

IFMGA Mountain Guide

So, you are planning to enter the vertical world? Here I will be describing the necessary equipment you need to begin. Whether you are planning to climb in the gym or you are ready to get outside, here is the gear necessary for gym climbing, top rope climbing, and sport climbing. Remember there are plenty of options for each of these pieces of gear. I will give you a few options in each category.

Gym Climbing Gear

Rock Shoes

    • These shoes are specifically designed for rock climbing. They have sticky rubber and a precise fit.

    • When sizing these shoes we recommend wearing them without socks. These shoes will stretch a bit but not much. You want the fit to be tight but not too uncomfortable. Don’t let the shop associate sell you on downsizing. Comfort is key to enjoying your climbing experience. Every brand's sizing is different so it is crucial you try them on. I wear a size 9 street shoe and an 8 ½ rock shoe from LA sportiva. 

Your first rock climbing shoe should just be a standard all around shoe similar to these listed below.

  • La Sportiva Finale

  • Scarpa Reflex VS

  • Black Diamond Momentum

Harness

For your first harness you want to find something that is comfortable and adjustable. If you plan on excelling to climbing outside quickly then it may be worth getting some a bit lighter and more expensive. 

  • Make sure your harness fits you well. It is meant to sit above your hip bone. It needs to be tight. Make sure the harness has 4 gear loops and a belay loop. 

  • Below are some examples of good first harnesses

    • Black Diamond Momentum harness

    • Petzl Adjama Harness

  • Examples of a lighter weight harness

    • Grivel Trend Harness

    • Petzl Sitta Harness

Chalk Bag

A chalk bag is used to keep our hands from getting wet and sweaty. Our hands are our connection to the rock. Often we will sweat and the chalk is extremely useful for keeping confidence on the rock.

Examples of Chalk Bag

  • Grivel logo chalk bag

  • Static Climbing chalk bag

Locking Carabiner

For gym climbing you need 1 locking carabiner. These come in all shapes and sizes. I recommend for your first carabiner getting a round stock pear shaped carabiner.

Examples

  • Black Diamond Rock Lock 

  • Petzl Attache

Belay Device

Air traffic Controller (ATC)

  • A belay device is to assist you with the rope in catching your partner if they fall.

  • If you are planning on climbing outside at any point I recommend getting a belay device with guide mode. This allows you to correctly belay on multi pitch climbs.

  • Examples of ATC

Gri Gri (Assisted breaking device)

  • These belay devices are quite a bit pricier. However they have made their way onto every climber's harness. This does not replace an ATC as it is more difficult to rappel. This is an assisted breaking device. That means if for some reason your hand comes off the rope, it is made to cam on the rope and arrest the fall.

Examples of ATC

  • Petzl Reversso

  • Black Diamond ATC Guide

  • Grivel Master Pro

Examples of Gri Gri

  • Beal Birdie

  • Petzl Gri Gri

With this gear, you will be able to top rope in the gym. You will also need this gear for the following activities.

Sport Climbing

Sport climbing is defined as climbing using preexisting bolts as protection. These bolts have been placed by someone else. As you lead up you will attach the rope to each bolt via a quickdraw. This is called lead climbing and you can take a fall. Lead climbing is only to be done after one has significant top roping experience. I also recommend lead climbing at your local gym before venturing outside.

Helmet

Helmet

  • A rock climbing rated helmet is important for outdoor climbing. This helps protect you from rockfall. It also can save your life if you hit your head on the wall.

  • There are plastic helmets and foam helmets. The foam helmets will be lighter, more expensive and less durable. I do find investing in a good foam helmet is worth it if you plan to do more climbing. 

Examples of Foam Helmets 

  • Grivel Stealth Helmet

  • Grivel Mutant Helmet

  • Black Diamond Vapor Helmet

  • Petzl Sirocco Helmet

Climbing Rope

Quick Draws

Quick draws are what we use to attach the rope to the bolt.

  • 12 quickdraws will get you through most sport climbs.

  • It is important to consult an app or guide book to know how many bolts are on a certain route. This way you will bring the appropriate number of quickdraws.

  • Quickdraws last a long time. I find it is better to invest in good quickdraws that do not have a wire notch.

  • You can often buy quickdraws in a set of 6. This is cheaper than buying them individually.

Examples of quick draws

  • Grivel Stealth Quickdraw

  • Black Diamond Hot Forge Quickdraw

  • Petzl Spirit Quickdraw

Anchor Building Material

Having some equipment to make anchors is a good idea. Often you can just use 2 quickdraws. However if the bolts are spaced weirdly apart then having some material is crucial. 

  • Having a couple extra locking and non-locking carabiners is crucial as well. 

  • Examples of anchor building material

    • Cordelette: 18-20 ft of 7-8mm accessory cord. The cord should be tied together with either a flemish bend, 2 inline flat overhands, or a double fisherman's knot.  

    • 180-320 centimeter sling

    • 2 locking carabiners

    • 2 non locking carabiners.

  • Remember it is important to practice with your gear or take a course to learn how to build proper anchors.

Connor Chilcott
Next

Introduction To Traditional Climbing Gear